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Serge Lutens L orpheline vs Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron
L orpheline is the community's favourite of the two.
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Notes
———Accords
Musky
100%
Amber
98%
Smoky
90%
Balsamic
68%
Powdery
65%
Warm spicy
60%
Performance
LongevityModerate
SillageModerate
Best Seasons
fallwinterspring
About
L'orpheline by Serge Lutens is a fragrance for women and men. L'orpheline was launched in 2014. The fragrance features Incense and Musk. 1. Yet another girl! Yes, if you believe that she is the abandoned part of me. Child, I have cut the world in two. On the one hand, a girl, The Vanquished – not the loser! - and more precisely, that which germinated in her and which in myself, I raised; and on the other, a boy, The Victor. For a child, the world comes down to three people: himself, his mother and his father. Without everyone making such a clear-cut choice as mine, each one will be dependent on it throughout his life.2. Did your choice present itself as the mother? Not the mother, her wound; I bore it. It is undeniably an identification. As for each and every one of us, I owe my life to chance. The famous throw of the dice appears exemplary to me – it is a sacred number – it is the one which leads us there where we should have been born or not to have been. I shall not recall the significant episodes of my destiny but, between what was and what I felt, the difference was greater. However, the child is the clairvoyant: he foresees. Since I accorded all the qualities of the feminine to the wound, she named me.3. From now on, should we understand that the masculine was denied in you? From what to my eyes was officially required: the army, authority, power, order, moralism, yes. I was at war with the Male: Maleficence. It can be expected that from this moment, I invent a woman and bring us up to date, it is the baptism of blood.4. Coming back to the orphan girl. Is this you? No, originally it was a virgin territory, it attracted me but I didn’t recognise myself there; this territory which I denied was that of men. My mother, she was the wrath and I, her son, its revenge.5. And the father, where is he? The father is the declared enemy. I was hatred on Earth, on Father. Of the mother I was the figurehead, and of the father the assassin. The wound did not heal. I could blind myself but I could see: the father was immortal. From him I keep the feminine which he betrayed.6. How did you recover the road to perfume in this labyrinth? It is the memory, forgiveness and like this, what we have today, it was able to survive: From the dust. It is not only in the feminine but it also has no plural. It is the wake of my life, that which remains when all has disappeared. It is the invisible which, veil after veil, there where it is forgotten, fades into grey.—Serge Lutens
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Notes
Top
Musk
Heart
Saffron
Base
AmbroxanIncense
Accords
Warm spicy
100%
Amber
95%
Musky
95%
Metallic
66%
Leather
59%
Tobacco
52%
Performance
LongevityLong lasting
SillageStrong
Best Seasons
fallwinterspring
About
Crystal Saffron by Matiere Premiere is a Oriental Spicy fragrance for women and men. Crystal Saffron was launched in 2022. The nose behind this fragrance is Aurélien Guichard. Top note is Musk; middle note is Saffron; base notes are Ambroxan and Incense. Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron is a bright crystalline perfume, built around Greek saffron oil. Obtained from the dried stigmas of crocus flowers, grown under the sun and light of Greece in the Kozani region, it is considered to be the most qualitative saffron in the world. Musk habanolide amplifies the brightness and aura of the saffron, while ambroxan underlines its comfortable, almost addictive character. An incense oil from Somalia accentuates its vibrancy and projection. Top note: Musk Habanolide Heart: Saffron Base: Ambroxan, IncenseMatiere Premiere Crystal Saffron is available as a 100 ml Eau de Parfum.
Notes in Common
0% sharedShared (0)
No shared notes — these are very different compositions.
Only in L orpheline
Only in Crystal Saffron
MuskSaffronAmbroxanIncense
Rating
4.06vs3.86
Ratings
3,933vs2,230
Concentration
EDPvsEDP
Launch Year
2014vs2022
Which should I buy?
L orpheline is the community's favourite of the two.
- L orpheline is rated higher by the community: 4.06 from 3,933 ratings, against 3.86 from 2,230.
- Longevity votes lean "moderate" for L orpheline and "long lasting" for Crystal Saffron.
- Sillage votes lean "moderate" for L orpheline versus "strong" for Crystal Saffron.
- Both are voted best for fall and winter.
- Matiere Premiere is a luxury house (typically $250+), while Serge Lutens is premium (typically $100–250).
Buy L orpheline if you want the higher-rated option; pick Crystal Saffron if its note profile reads closer to what you already love wearing.